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Hilary Jay joins David Newman to discuss her wild journey from wearing heirloom diamond watches in college to cofounding Maximal Art, a brand that pioneered the "watch bracelet" and reached 2,000 stores worldwide. Hilary shares how a chance connection with the Thompson Twins in 1980s London turned a hobby of making collages into a global business that adorned stars like Michael Jackson and Janet Jackson. She pulls back the curtain on the "Watch Bracelet" phenomenon, revealing how her designs ended up in prestigious museums like the Louvre and the Philadelphia Museum of Art. The conversation takes a dramatic turn as Hilary recounts the "Great Radium Recall," where OSHA with Geiger counters discovered her vintage dead stock dials were radioactive. From celebrity parties in Paris to navigating high stakes product recalls, Hilary illustrates how a career in design is like a game of "Barrel of Monkeys," where every unique pivot leads to the next adventure.

⏱️ Timestamps

00:00 : Early Connections

• Hilary remembers wearing Victorian diamond watches from her grandmother as bracelets in college.
• She explains why it never mattered if those early watches actually worked as long as they were beautiful jewelry.

02:26 : Meeting John Wind

• How a college friendship built on date nights making collages turned into a global business partnership.
• The journey from art school in England to finding unique pieces at the Bricklane Flea Market.

03:51 : The Thompson Twins

• The unexpected phone call from Alana of the Thompson Twins that launched a jewelry company.
• Delivering handmade pieces to Paris and partying all night with 1980s rock stars.

06:06 : The Jewelry Collage

• Discovering watch dials in bags of junk and embedding them in resin with pearls and chains.
• How Maximal Art became known for jewelry collage and produced thousands of unique pieces.

08:45 : The Watch Bracelet

• Finding a box of non-functional watches from a lawyer with a side gig in watch repair.
• The birth of the watch bracelet which eventually landed in the collection of the Louvre.

10:25 : Influencer Marketing

• Using old fashioned PR to get jewelry onto album covers and into the hands of Michael Jackson.
• Why giving away pieces to celebrities like Janet Jackson and Patti LaBelle was the ultimate growth strategy.

12:51 : The Functionality Shift

• Transitioning from purely cosmetic pieces to watches that actually served a horological purpose.
• The challenge of finding manufacturers and the risk of being knocked off by your own factory.

20:28 : The Radium Crisis

• The terrifying moment OSHA showed up at a retail store with Geiger counters to test her jewelry.
• Executing a massive recall across Neiman Marcus and Saks after discovering dead stock dials were radioactive.

25:55 : Advice for Makers

• Hilary shares the reality of the trade show market and the challenge of building a business today.
• Why finding your bliss is more important than chasing big financial returns in a small enterprise.

30:44 : The Barrel of Monkeys

• Viewing a multifaceted career as a series of iterations that hook into one another.
• Why the ability to iterate and use design thinking is the secret to a long and interesting career.

A watch does not have to work to be a masterpiece, but it probably should not be radioactive.
==========

FREE GUIDE: Buy Your First Great Watch Without Getting Burned

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• Know exactly what matters (and what doesn't) before you spend a dollar
• Avoid the 10 common mistakes that cost beginners thousands
• Find a great watch that fits your life, your style, and your budget
• Skip the jargon, the snobbery, and the "collector nonsense"
• Get a simple decision framework that makes buying easy and obvious

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David Newman sits down with Geoffrey Parker, the Chairman of the Board for the NAWCC, to explore a life dedicated to mechanical precision. Jeff shares how his childhood fascination with a local watchmaker and a professional background in complex scale modeling led him to salvage a "rectangle lot" of junk watches from eBay to teach himself the trade. From the emotional weight of restoring a Vietnam veteran's cherished Seiko to navigating the diverse factions of the horological community, Jeff explains why a watch is much more than just a tool. He offers a peek at his own impressive collection, including a 1951 original Omega and award winning custom skeletonized builds, while providing essential advice for beginners looking to find their own hidden treasures at flea markets and local meets.

⏱️ Timestamps

00:04 : Welcome to the Show

• David introduces Jeff as a watch guru, maker, and industry insider.
• Jeff reflects on his earliest memories and his lifelong connection to the craft.

00:41 : The Face Against the Glass

• Jeff recalls being the "Norman Rockwell" boy with his face pressed against a local watchmaker's window.
• How his background building 1/8 scale car replicas with 4,000 parts prepared him for the precision of horology.

02:46 : The "Rectangle Lot" Experiment

• Buying a "wreck and tangle" lot of junk watches on eBay to see if he could actually fix them.
• The card table and simple tools that launched a decades long journey into professional repair.

04:44 : The Emotional Side of Repair

• Salvaging a late husband's water damaged watch for a grieving coworker.
• Restoring a Vietnam veteran's faceted Seiko that became one of the most meaningful projects of his career.

06:10 : Ancestral Watchmakers

• Discovering a hidden family history of watchmaking that dates back over 150 years.
• Why Jeff feels he was destined to pick up the trade as the only current family member in the craft.

14:31 : Building Award Winning Timepieces

• The story of the skeletonized Swiss movement build that won first prize at a national craft contest.
• Why Jeff plans to eventually leave his cybersecurity career to focus on building custom watches full time.

22:52 : Leading the NAWCC Community

• Navigating the different subgroups of wristwatch, pocket watch, and clock collectors.
• Why the "MoonSwatch" phenomenon is a vital gateway for bringing younger collectors into the hobby.

28:58 : Innovation at the Museum

• Highlighting the Bulova exhibit and the fascinating immigration story of Joseph Bulova.
• Exploring the legacy of Accutron tuning fork technology and its impact on American watchmaking.

32:30 : Show and Tell

• A look at a garnet colored Baume & Mercier and a completely original 1951 Omega Seamaster.
• The rare 1963 Zodiac chronograph that required a two year restoration process.

37:44 : Advice for the New Collector

• Why beginners should look for makers fairs and watch meets to find what truly excites them.
• Approaching affordable vintage collecting with a "gambling" mindset for better entertainment value.

41:30 : The Lightning Round

• Jeff explains why he would choose one great masterpiece over a collection of five good ones.
• Why the value of pre owned watches makes them a smarter choice than buying brand new.

A great watch is a perfect storm of engineering, history, and art that reminds you to enjoy every second.
==========
FREE GUIDE: Buy Your First Great Watch Without Getting Burned

Download the WatchSmarts Beginner Buyer's Guide »

• Know exactly what matters (and what doesn't) before you spend a dollar
• Avoid the 10 common mistakes that cost beginners thousands
• Find a great watch that fits your life, your style, and your budget
• Skip the jargon, the snobbery, and the "collector nonsense"
• Get a simple decision framework that makes buying easy and obvious

Get the FREE WatchSmarts Beginner Buyer's Guide

David Newman welcomes JD Tyler, the creative force behind the Redhead Horology newsletter, to explore the psychological depths of watch collecting. JD shares his transition from a childhood fascinations with Scooby-Doo and Mickey Mouse to developing a "healthy" way to interact with the hobby through storytelling. He introduces a unique framework for collectors, categorizing them as horological hoarders, hunters, or hitchhikers, while admitting his own tendency to "hitchhike" by stumbling into meaningful pieces rather than chasing corporate hype. Together, they discuss the "hedonic treadmill" of high end acquisition and the "Red Bull effect" where marketing shapes our desires for watches we do not actually need. From the vintage charm of a $200 Timex Draper to the utility of a $150 Veyer field watch, JD emphasizes that a collection should be a curated reflection of one's authentic lifestyle and personal history.

⏱️ Timestamps
00:00 : The Birth of Redhead Horology

• JD explains his desire to move away from mindless consumption toward a more human-centered watch hobby.
• How his background in theology and religion informs his focus on the stories we attach to mechanical objects.

02:08 : Hoarders, Hunters, and Hitchhikers

• JD breaks down his three-part framework for identifying your personal collecting style.
• Why he identifies as a "hitchhiker" who prefers watches that cross his path organically rather than through a targeted hunt.

04:36 : The Hedonic Treadmill

• A discussion on why hitting a milestone like buying a Rolex often fails to provide long term satisfaction.
• Identifying the "spare moment consumption" habit of scrolling watch content while waiting in line for coffee.

07:11 : Affordable Vintage Vibes

• Why JD recently picked up a Timex Draper to scratch the itch for a 1960s casual dress aesthetic.
• Discussing the specs of the Draper, including its mechanical Miota movement and era-appropriate mineral crystal.

10:30 : Decor vs. Utility

• David reveals his "office decor" trick for justifying a collection of over 100 affordable watches.
• The psychological benefit of displaying watches in a case like fine china rather than feeling pressured to wear them all.

11:46 : Socially Acceptable Jewelry

• Exploring the theory that watches are one of the few pieces of jewelry men feel comfortable wearing in certain cultures.
• How the explosion of visual social media has turned horology into a massive marketing apparatus.

15:30 : Sourcing the Stories

• JD shares his "secret sauce" for newsletters, including writing months of content in advance to maintain quality.
• Retelling the story of Zak Brown from McLaren F1, whose racing career started by selling a pair of Cartier watches.

26:02 : Advice for New Collectors

• Why JD believes beginners should stop chasing brands and start looking for personal meaning in their pieces.
• A staunch defense of quartz movements and why they do not deserve the "snobbery" often found in the hobby.

33:42 : The Red Bull Effect

• How branding can make an "objectively horrible" product successful by attaching it to an adventurous lifestyle.
• The importance of distinguishing between the "zeitgeist" and your own actual daily preferences.
• Your collection should be a reflection of your own life story rather than a curated catalog of corporate marketing.

==========
FREE GUIDE: Buy Your First Great Watch Without Getting Burned
Download the WatchSmarts Beginner Buyer's Guide »

• Know exactly what matters (and what doesn't) before you spend a dollar
• Avoid the 10 common mistakes that cost beginners thousands
• Find a great watch that fits your life, your style, and your budget
• Skip the jargon, the snobbery, and the "collector nonsense"
• Get a simple decision framework that makes buying easy and obvious

Get the FREE WatchSmarts Beginner Buyer's Guide

David Newman welcomes Nico to discuss a collection that started not with a purchase, but with a total surprise from a deceased neighbor. Mr. Beattie left Nico a jewelry box containing ten vintage timepieces, including a fleet of Hamiltons and a Korean War-era Omega, effectively turning a non-watch wearer into a dedicated enthusiast overnight. Nico shares his journey from that first inherited box to his first intentional purchase of a Seiko Presage Irish Coffee and his more recent acquisition of a Hamilton Jazzmaster to honor his mentor. Throughout the conversation, Nico and David dive into the "entry-level" watch debate, the tactical benefits of National Watch Day, and why a $200 discovery in Paris can sometimes provide more joy than a high-status Rolex.

⏱️ Timestamps
00:02 : The Accidental Collector

• Nico reveals that he did not own a single watch through high school or most of college.
• How a surprise inheritance from a neighbor changed his perspective on horology forever.

00:59 : Mr. Beattie's Jewelry Box

• Opening a legacy gift containing ten Hamilton watches and a Korean War-era Omega Seamaster.
• The challenge of getting vintage mechanical pieces back into working order after decades of storage.

02:01 : The Irish Coffee Seiko

• Nico details his first self-purchased watch, a Seiko Presage with a chocolatey brown dial.
• Why the quality and feel of an affordable piece mattered more than a high-end price tag.

03:15 : Legacy of the Neighbor

• Discovering the hidden watch collection of a man who usually collected seeds and recipes.
• Why Mr. Beattie likely chose Hamilton as his primary brand of choice based on family ties.

05:32 : The Entry-Level Debate

• David discusses a "Watch Crunch" firestorm regarding the definition of entry-level timepieces.
• Why price points are subjective and every level of the hobby deserves respect.

09:37 : National Watch Day

• David reveals a fun fact about recording on June 19th, the official National Watch Day.
• Exploring the cultural impact of watches and their endurance in a digital age.

12:41 : The Paris Discovery

• The story of a spontaneous Louis Pion purchase that caught Nico's eye in a French shop window.
• Why the aesthetics of a watch face and font can often trump the prestige of a brand name.

17:53 : The Rolex Resistance

• Why Nico finds many Rolex models overrated compared to unique independent offerings.
• Avoiding the social signal trap of buying a watch just because you are told you should love it.

30:54 : The Digital Gateway

• How smartwatches are actually helping the traditional industry by reclaiming "wrist real estate."
• The shift from purely utilitarian tools to accessories with deep personal meaning.

33:06 : The Lightning Round

• Nico chooses between vintage and modern, straps and bracelets, and loud versus quiet designs.
• Why he believes in owning one great watch over five good ones to ensure daily wear.

35:16 : Final Thoughts

• Nico shares why the story and personal connection to a watch matter more than the price.
• Encouraging new collectors to wear what they love without worrying about brand prestige.
• The best watch in the world is the one that makes you smile when you look at your wrist, regardless of the logo.

==========
FREE GUIDE: Buy Your First Great Watch Without Getting Burned
Download the WatchSmarts Beginner Buyer's Guide »

• Know exactly what matters (and what doesn't) before you spend a dollar
• Avoid the 10 common mistakes that cost beginners thousands
• Find a great watch that fits your life, your style, and your budget
• Skip the jargon, the snobbery, and the "collector nonsense"
• Get a simple decision framework that makes buying easy and obvious

Get the FREE WatchSmarts Beginner Buyer's Guide

David Newman welcomes Calvin Smith of Lusso Straps to dive into the often overlooked but essential world of watch straps. Calvin shares how his background in the Peace Corps and travels to over 75 countries fueled a passion for high quality leather that eventually led him to the unique cult of Panerai. They discuss why most mass produced straps are essentially the particle board of the horological world and how a simple strap change can completely transform the mood and functionality of a timepiece. From creating custom fit solutions for small wrists to pulling out subtle dial details with contrasting thread, Calvin explains why a handcrafted strap is the ultimate way to refresh your collection without buying a whole new watch.

00:01 – The World of Straps

• David introduces Calvin Smith, the founder of Lusso Straps and a specialist in the niche world of Panerai customization.

• Setting the stage for a conversation on how straps serve as the unsung heroes of the watch box.

00:41 – Peace Corps and Plywood Leather

• How a background in international consulting and Costa Rican leather crafts sparked the idea for a business.

• Why bonded leather is considered the particle board of the watch world and why quality matters for comfort.

03:41 – The Panerai Connection

• Exploring why the unique tool watch history of the Italian Navy makes Panerai the perfect canvas for leather work.

• Why legibility and size are critical for true diving tools when used in murky underwater conditions.

06:46 – Solving the Small Wrist Struggle

• Calvin discusses the difficulty of finding high-quality straps that fit a six and a half inch wrist properly.

• Why custom measurements are far superior to off-the-rack options that look like a sundial on the arm.

10:46 – Handcrafted in the Midwest

• Meeting the master strapsmith and former saddleryman who brings Calvin's designs to life with movie-quality precision.

• The technical challenge of maintaining a strict tolerance of less than a quarter of a millimeter for a perfect fit.

14:31 – Seasonal Mood Swings

• How a bright yellow strap for summer or black crocodile for luxury can completely change a watch's personality.

• Using contrasting thread to highlight specific dial details, such as a red arrowhead second hand.

18:17 – The Alternative to a New Watch

• Why you do not need to drop ten thousand dollars on a green dial if you can just buy a high-quality green strap.

• How a few hundred dollars on handcrafted leather can scratch the itch for a new timepiece.

21:57 – The Panerai 101

• A breakdown of the three basic categories of the brand, including the Radiomir, Luminor, and Submersible.

• Why the Radiomir wire lugs require a bit more expertise and patience to navigate during a strap change.

28:35 – Motorsport and Memories

• Calvin shares his personal collection including Chopard Superfast models and his first Rolex Day-Date purchase.

• The story behind the Yema Rallygraph and the 1969 Mario Andretti Indianapolis 500 victory.

36:18 – Becoming a Connoisseur

• Why moving from off-the-rack straps to custom leather is like moving from a department store suit to a tailored jacket.

• Final advice on finding the perfect fit that complements both your physiology and your personal style.

Once you experience a strap that was made specifically for your wrist, you will never go back to off-the-shelf leather again.

==========

FREE GUIDE: Buy Your First Great Watch Without Getting Burned

Download the WatchSmarts Beginner Buyer's Guide »

• Know exactly what matters (and what doesn't) before you spend a dollar

• Avoid the 10 common mistakes that cost beginners thousands

• Find a great watch that fits your life, your style, and your budget

• Skip the jargon, the snobbery, and the "collector nonsense"

• Get a simple decision framework that makes buying easy and obvious