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The grape that once dominated French vineyards has risen from obscurity to become one of the most exciting varietals in kosher wine. Carignan's story is one of remarkable transformation – from bulk wine scapegoat to artisanal darling.

Born in northeastern Spain so long ago it gave its name to a town rather than the reverse, Carignan traveled through the Mediterranean basin adapting to new terroirs and playing crucial roles in viticultural history. By the mid-20th century, it became France's most planted grape before falling victim to its own success. Overcropped and mismanaged, it gained an undeserved reputation for harsh, tannic wines lacking distinction.

For Israeli agriculture, Carignan proved invaluable during the First Aliyah of the 1880s. Baron Edmund de Rothschild imported French cuttings to help establish Jewish farming communities, with Carignan's resilience perfectly suited to Mediterranean conditions. For decades, it formed the backbone of Israeli wine, particularly for sacramental purposes, before being overshadowed by international varieties in the quest for prestige.

Today, visionary winemakers have rediscovered this ancient varietal's true potential. Through careful farming of old bush vines, limited yields, and thoughtful vinification, they're revealing Carignan's extraordinary range – from powerful, structured reds reminiscent of top Rhône wines to light, chillable natural expressions, elegant rosés, and even rare white versions.

What makes Carignan truly special is its chameleon-like ability to express terroir. The same grape produces wildly different wines in France, Chile, California, and Israel, each reflecting their unique growing conditions with remarkable transparency. Add its natural resilience to drought, heat, and disease, and Carignan suddenly looks like the perfect varietal for our changing climate.

Whether you're exploring bottles from Vitkin, Tepperberg, or boutique producers in the Judean Hills, Carignan offers something authentically Mediterranean yet distinctly modern. In its journey from rejection to renaissance, it tells a quintessentially Jewish story of resilience, adaptation and rebirth – a narrative worth savoring with every sip.

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Send a Text Message to The Kosher Terroir

Wine begins with passion, curiosity, and an open heart – elements that define Penina Kustanowitz's remarkable journey into winemaking. Speaking while journeying from Jerusalem to Yerucham's Pinto Winery, Penina shares how a simple love for kosher wine blossomed into a full-fledged winemaking career that's quickly establishing her as one of Israel's rising stars.

Her story unfolds organically – from joining the RCC Club and volunteering at harvests to a fortuitous phone call that led to her first assistant winemaker position. Now armed with UC Davis certification and producing her own label, Penina invites us into the intimate world of fermentation management, barrel aging, and the surprising practice of singing to her fermenting yeast (which actually responds to her voice!).

What makes this conversation special isn't just the technical insights but the human elements woven throughout. Penina's "Upstream" California-style Chardonnay embodies her winemaking philosophy: "Make what you want to drink," even when it goes against prevailing trends. Her experiences blending wines reveal the artistic side of the craft – "like painting with grapes" to create harmonious expressions that tell a story in every sip.

The warmth and generosity of Israel's winemaking community shines through as Penina recounts how established figures freely shared knowledge and opened doors for her development. From managing the challenges of desert heat waves to the careful orchestration of harvest timelines across multiple climatic regions, we witness the unique elements that make Israeli winemaking both challenging and rewarding.

Pour yourself a glass of something wonderful and join this heartfelt conversation that captures not just how wine is made, but how a winemaker is made – through passion, perseverance, and an ever-curious spirit. Whether you're dreaming of making your own wine or simply appreciate the stories behind what's in your glass, this episode offers a taste of what's possible when you follow your palate and your heart.

For More Information:

Penina Kustanowitz : Winemaker

email: Peninak@gmail.com

You can find Penina's wines at Kos Shel Beracha #16 Halamed Hei Street Jerusalem 93661 / JLMwines.com / +972-2-561-1557 / +972-54-537-5663. They do ship throughout Israel and internationally.

Support the show

www.TheKosherTerroir.com
+972-58-731-1567
+1212-999-4444
TheKosherTerroir@gmail.com
Link to Join “The Kosher Terroir” WhatsApp Chat
https://chat.whatsapp.com/EHmgm2u5lQW9VMzhnoM7C9
Thursdays 6:30pm Eastern Time on the NSN Network and the NSN App

Send a Text Message to The Kosher Terroir

The soulful journey of Jeff Morgan from jazz saxophone virtuoso to kosher wine pioneer unveils a remarkable story of passion, transformation, and unexpected spiritual connection. With natural charisma and refreshing candor, Morgan recounts his first culinary awakening in France as a 19-year-old music student that would eventually reshape his entire life's trajectory.

At the heart of this conversation lies the birth story of Covenant Winery—an enterprise that began almost as a dare between Morgan and his late business partner Leslie Rudd. Could they create a kosher wine to rival the world's finest? From securing premier Napa Valley grapes to confronting the technical challenges of kosher winemaking, Morgan's dedication to quality and authenticity shines through every anecdote.

What makes this story truly captivating is how making kosher wine became Morgan's unexpected gateway to Jewish tradition. Despite growing up disconnected from his religious heritage, the emotional moment when he pitched his kosher wine concept revealed something deeper stirring within him. Working alongside Shomer Shabbat cellar workers exposed him to Jewish prayers and practices, sparking a curiosity that would eventually lead him to embrace his heritage in profound ways.

We explore Covenant's ambitious expansion to Israel, where Morgan spent years developing wines that honored the ancient winemaking tradition of the Holy Land. Though financial challenges ultimately forced Covenant to cease Israeli operations in 2021, Morgan's passion for returning remains palpable as he shares his dream of building his own winery there someday. His genuine commitment to both exceptional winemaking and honoring Jewish tradition comes through in his latest innovations—from the Black Label series to the new Woodacre Spirits program.

Whether you're fascinated by winemaking techniques, personal transformation stories, or the intersection of tradition and innovation, this conversation offers rich insights into how one person's creative journey can revitalize an entire category of wine while simultaneously deepening their connection to heritage and faith. Ready to pour a glass and join us on this remarkable journey through music, meaning, and mastery?

For More Information:

Covenant Winery
Jeff & Jodie Morgan and Geoff Rochwarger, Owners
Jeff Morgan, Founding Winemaker
Phone: +1 (510) 559-9045
E-Mail: wine@covenantwines.com
Address: 1102 6th Street
Berkeley, California 94710
Web Site: www.CovenantWines.com

Support the show

www.TheKosherTerroir.com
+972-58-731-1567
+1212-999-4444
TheKosherTerroir@gmail.com
Link to Join “The Kosher Terroir” WhatsApp Chat
https://chat.whatsapp.com/EHmgm2u5lQW9VMzhnoM7C9
Thursdays 6:30pm Eastern Time on the NSN Network and the NSN App