Well if it isn't the most beat to death fashion topic on the internet...

The Antwerp Six

BUT

I'll bet you'll learn something you haven't heard of before in today's episode...(and if you don't be sure to let me know in the comments ;)

So join me, in finding out who the true 7th member of the 6, really is.

instagram: @readthecaretag

inquiries readthecaretagpodcast@gmail.com

Theme: by Étienne Dyer

SOURCES

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1rh1N7V_SSmyxPhss9zflygknrfA8t86OUoMUZ__H-oY/edit?gid=0#gid=0

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After a brief break over the holidays, we are back again with another fashion episode. This time, I am venturing into a bit more philoso-history back to the OG question of the podcast: WHY WE WEAR CLOTHES?

instagram: @readthecaretag

inquiries readthecaretagpodcast@gmail.com

Theme: by Étienne Dyer

SOURCES

1. HAWLEY, RICHARD. “LORDS OF THE RINGS: RING-WEARING, STATUS, AND IDENTITY IN THE AGE OF PLINY THE ELDER.” Bulletin of the Institute of Classical Studies. Supplement, no. 100, 2007, pp. 103–11. JSTOR, http://www.jstor.org/stable/43767663. Accessed 4 Feb. 2025.
2. https://americanenglishdoctor.com/four-levels-of-literacy/
3. https://bmcr.brynmawr.edu/2020/2020.09.12/
4. PwC, “Unraveling the Fabric Ceiling", 2019
5. He, M., Lee, J. Social culture and innovation diffusion: a theoretically founded agent-based model. J Evol Econ 30, 1109–1149 (2020).
6. https://www.oxfordartonline.com/groveart/display/10.1093/gao/9781884446054.001.0001/oao-9781884446054-e-7002082669?d=%2F10.1093%2Fgao%2F9781884446054.001.0001%2Foao-9781884446054-e-7002082669&p=emailAIxwVp%2F4ynFMk
7. https://www.parity.org/fashion/
8. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jūnihitoe
9. https://sengokudaimyo.com/garb/mens-garments#:~:text=In%20the%20Heian%20period%2C%20commoners,than%20the%20Heian%20nobility%27s%20underwear.
10. https://scarc.library.oregonstate.edu/omeka/exhibits/show/mcdonald/incunabula/gutenberg/#:~:text=By%201440%20Gutenberg%20had%20established,of%20indulgences%20for%20the%20Church.
11. https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2014/07/140724094209.htm
12. Ritchie, SJ, Bates, TC and Plomin, R. Does Learning to Read Improve Intelligence? A Longitudinal Multivariate Analysis in Identical Twins From Age 7 to 16. Child Development, 2014
13. https://www.britannica.com/topic/sumptuary-law#:~:text=Sumptuary%20laws%20are%20of%20ancient,than%20the%20ax%20and%20saw.
14. https://translate.how/en/fashion/
15. https://www.thevintagenews.com/2016/11/02/3000-year-old-ball-of-thread-discovered-in-the-uk/
16. https://www.facebook.com/PolyesterMagazine/posts/what-is-it-about-goth-which-attracts-so-many-trans-people-and-what-explains-goth/893138189138195/
17. Society for Research in Child Development. "Stronger early reading skills predict higher intelligence later." ScienceDaily. ScienceDaily, 24 July 2014. -www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2014/07/140724094209.htm-.
18. Choi, W., Lee, Y. & Jang, S. Diffusion of fashion trend information: a study on fashion image mining from various sources. Fash Text 11, 30 (2024). https://doi.org/10.1186/s40691-024-00394-8
19. KarenHarvey,‘Introduction:PracticalMatters’,inHistoryandMaterialCulture:AStudent’sGuidetoApproachingAlternativeSources, ed. Karen Harvey (London: Routledge, 2009)
20. Acerbi A, Ghirlanda S, Enquist M (2012) The Logic of Fashion Cycles. PLoS ONE 7(3): e32541.
21. Shaping Femininity By Sarah A Bendall
22. https://www.elizabethan-era.org.uk/elizabethan-clothing-fashion-men.htm
23. 54 Holme,TheAcademyofArmory,94.
24. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC3296716/#pone.0032541-Pesendorfer1
25. https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1590-1599/
26. https://elizabethanenglandlife.com/clothing-allowed-for-men-in-elizabethan-era.html
27. https://scarc.library.oregonstate.edu/omeka/exhibits/show/mcdonald/incunabula/gutenberg/#:~:text=By%201440%20Gutenberg%20had%20established,of%20indulgences%20for%20the%20Church.
28. https://www.britannica.com/question/What-was-Queen-Elizabeth-Is-relationship-to-religion-in-England
29. https://www.rmg.co.uk/stories/topics/elizabeth-i-fashion-beauty#:~:text=Elizabeth%27s%20dress%20evolved%20throughout%20her,worn%20in%20her%20later%20years.
30. https://www.elizabethan-era.org.uk/elizabethan-upper-class-fashion.html
31. https://shows.acast.com/gone-medieval/episodes/why-the-early-middle-ages-matter

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After a brief break to recover from halloween, we are back again with another fashion subculture episode. Although stores are putting up their holiday displays, in my house, spooky season never ends! Join me on a deep dive of trad goth, romantic goth, whimsigoth, & everything in between.

instagram: @readthecaretag

inquiries readthecaretagpodcast@gmail.com

Theme: by Étienne Dyer

Sources:

https://australian.museum/about/history/exhibitions/death-the-last-taboo/mourning-victorian-era/#:~:text=Widows%20were%20expected%20to%20mourn,of%20a%20parent%20or%20sibling.

https://www.compassrosedesign.com/pages/history-of-victorian-mourning-jewelry?srsltid=AfmBOooeaFl8WqaOpXPHTbcbXfEzklqo0vm_-vhslI3D7b43T6l6vqUE

https://4cs.gia.edu/en-us/blog/antique-victorian-era-mourning-jewelry/

https://alwaysuttori.com/daily-dose-of-uttori/a-history-of-goth-fashion/

https://inchoobijoux.com/blogs/inchoo-blog/this-history-of-goth?srsltid=AfmBOooqOpNm8TRBfEr2wK0YP-k8YQDqJe0_3wANW7PJP6khPb7v_MGy

https://aesthetics.fandom.com/wiki/Trad_Goth

https://gothtypes.fandom.com/wiki/Trad_Goth

https://post-punk.com/big-hair-fishnets-and-eyeliner-a-gallery-of-80s-goth-and-deathrock-culture-part-ii/

https://scholarsarchive.jwu.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1029&context=student_scholarship

https://www.messynessychic.com/2021/03/09/men-wore-corsets-history-says/

https://ussconstitutionmuseum.org/2013/07/09/suck-it-in-purser-thomas-chews-corse/

https://aesthetics.fandom.com/wiki/Gothabilly

https://aesthetics.fandom.com/wiki/Whimsigothic#Music

https://www.britannica.com/art/Gothic-art

https://www.amfm-magazine.tv/interview-with-andi-sex-gang-sex-gang-children-the-original-goth/

Citation: Nally, Claire (2018) Goth Beauty, Style & Sexuality: Neo-Traditional Femininity in Twenty-First Century Subcultural Magazines. Gothic Studies, 20 (1-2). pp. 1-28. ISSN 1362- 7937

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Join me on PART 2 of a deep dive into an appropriately unhinged analysis (a la but also nothing like (icon) @mikesmic ) of Jean Paul Gaultier's costume design for THE 5TH ELEMENT.

This is the 5th (element) episode of Read the Care Tag: A Fashion Podcast, which delves into the sublime stylings and references upon references of the Luc Besson Film The 5th Element.

instagram: @readthecaretag

inquiries readthecaretagpodcast@gmail.com

Disclaimer: Footage from the 5th Element Film was used for analysis and education purposes.

Theme: by Étienne Dyer

Sources:

Besson, L., Kamen, R. M., Ledoux, P., Willis, B., Oldman, G., Holm, I., Tucker, C., Jovovich, M., Gaultier, J., Serra, E., & Arbogast, T. (2007). The Fifth Element . Sony Pictures Home Entertainment.

https://fiberfeast.wordpress.com/tag/weaving-shot-silk/

Pierre Cardin's Space-Age Fashion Takes Us Back to the Future - The New York Times

https://www.britannica.com/biography/Jean-Paul-Gaultier

https://fifth-element.fandom.com/wiki/Leeloo

https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1997-besson-the-fifth-element/

https://gatamagazine.com/articles/fashion/5th-element-looks

https://www.minniemuse.com/articles/art-of/jean-paul-gauliter-in-film

https://www.grailed.com/drycleanonly/the-fifth-element-style-impact

https://bricksmagazine.co.uk/2022/06/27/why-the-fifth-element-still-has-the-best-costume-design-25-years-on/

https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1997-besson-the-fifth-element/#:~:text=Gaultier%20treated%20the%20over%201000,to%20come%20from%20fictional%20fashion.

https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/35459/1/a-closer-look-at-gaultiers-fifth-element-costume-design

https://anatomyofascream.com/2018/09/12/fabric-and-flesh-jean-paul-gaultier-and-his-work-on-the-fifth-element/

https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1990-1999/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ck47lIfCJeA

https://www.sleek-mag.com/article/jean-paul-gaultier/

https://customuniforms.co.uk/blogs/work-clothing/the-history-of-medical-scrubs

https://histclo.tripod.com/chron.html

https://wakemag.org/voices/2022/11/15/disability-and-deformity-evil

https://www.theguardian.com/news/2023/mar/14/the-disabled-villain-why-sensitivity-reading-cant-kill-off-this-ugly-trope

https://tvtropes.org/pmwiki/pmwiki.php/Main/EvilCripple

https://fashionheritage.eu/jean-paul-gaultier-the-couture-years/

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Join me on a dive into an appropriately unhinged analysis (a la but also nothing like (icon) @mikesmic ) of Jean Paul Gaultier's costume design for THE 5TH ELEMENT.

This is the 5th (element) episode of Read the Care Tag: A Fashion Podcast, which delves into the sublime stylings and references upon references of the Luc Besson Film The 5th Element.

instagram: @readthecaretag

inquiries readthecaretagpodcast@gmail.com

Disclaimer: Footage from the 5th Element Film was used for analysis and education purposes.

Theme: by Étienne Dyer

Sources:

Besson, L., Kamen, R. M., Ledoux, P., Willis, B., Oldman, G., Holm, I., Tucker, C., Jovovich, M., Gaultier, J., Serra, E., & Arbogast, T. (2007). The Fifth Element . Sony Pictures Home Entertainment.

https://fiberfeast.wordpress.com/tag/weaving-shot-silk/

Pierre Cardin's Space-Age Fashion Takes Us Back to the Future - The New York Times

https://www.britannica.com/biography/Jean-Paul-Gaultier

https://fifth-element.fandom.com/wiki/Leeloo

https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1997-besson-the-fifth-element/

https://gatamagazine.com/articles/fashion/5th-element-looks

https://www.minniemuse.com/articles/art-of/jean-paul-gauliter-in-film

https://www.grailed.com/drycleanonly/the-fifth-element-style-impact

https://bricksmagazine.co.uk/2022/06/27/why-the-fifth-element-still-has-the-best-costume-design-25-years-on/

https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1997-besson-the-fifth-element/#:~:text=Gaultier%20treated%20the%20over%201000,to%20come%20from%20fictional%20fashion.

https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/35459/1/a-closer-look-at-gaultiers-fifth-element-costume-design

https://anatomyofascream.com/2018/09/12/fabric-and-flesh-jean-paul-gaultier-and-his-work-on-the-fifth-element/

https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1990-1999/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ck47lIfCJeA

https://www.sleek-mag.com/article/jean-paul-gaultier/

https://customuniforms.co.uk/blogs/work-clothing/the-history-of-medical-scrubs

https://histclo.tripod.com/chron.html

https://wakemag.org/voices/2022/11/15/disability-and-deformity-evil

https://www.theguardian.com/news/2023/mar/14/the-disabled-villain-why-sensitivity-reading-cant-kill-off-this-ugly-trope

https://tvtropes.org/pmwiki/pmwiki.php/Main/EvilCripple

https://fashionheritage.eu/jean-paul-gaultier-the-couture-years/

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This is the fourth episode of Read the Care Tag: A Fashion Podcast, which delves into the Soviet Fashion subculture of the mid century USSR

instagram: @readthecaretag

Disclaimer: I do my best to thoroughly research every episode (sources linked below), this episode I used many Russian sources, which while my native language speaking-wise, is not so flawless when it comes to reading. So give me grace with any mistakes that may happen. Always happy to hear feedback in the comments :)

Theme: by Étienne Dyer

All sketches in motion by me

Sources:

https://www.russiaislove.com/history/332232-soviet-women-1970s

https://rarehistoricalphotos.com/soviet-fashion-photos-1960s-and-1970s/

https://www.rbth.com/arts/2013/11/26/soviet_fashions_of_the_1960s_dawn_of_a_new_era_32045.html

https://www.nytimes.com/1971/01/08/archives/long-hair-legal-soviet-aide-rules-replying-to-a-complaint-he-bars-a.html

https://www.messynessychic.com/2015/05/25/the-stylehunters-of-soviet-russia/

https://sputnikglobe.com/20181029/komsomol-founding-anniversary-1069288399.html

https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:RIAN_archive_535377_Dancing_during_break_between_sessions_of_19th_Komsomol_congress.jpg

https://www.rbth.com/history/333153-why-did-soviet-people-join-komsomol-ussr

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hSPHd3tDH7w

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oefXgSUyoOA

https://rarehistoricalphotos.com/soviet-subculture-hippies-punks-goths-metalheads/

https://appledoesnotfall.com/school-part-8/

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/322868203_Orange_Jackets_and_Pea_Green_Pants_The_Fashion_of_Stilyagi_in_Soviet_Postwar_Culture

https://rucore.libraries.rutgers.edu/rutgers-lib/43919/PDF/1/play/

https://www.abc.net.au/news/2020-02-25/saxophone-history-of-musical-instrument-brutal-and-beautiful/11960922

https://www.x-rayaudio.com/x-rayaudioblog/2021/2/28/dancing-around-the-censor

https://www.smithsonianmag.com/arts-culture/brief-history-zoot-suit-180958507/

https://robstef85.wixsite.com/stylygi

https://sputnikglobe.com/20181029/komsomol-founding-anniversary-1069288399.html

https://www.vokrugsveta.ru/vs/article/7714/

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fback-in-ussr.com%2F2019%2F08%2Fkak-odevalas-sovetskaya-molodezh.html&psig=AOvVaw0-IjOLCaxo8Nm_ke-xHiLf&ust=1724036248008000&source=images&cd=vfe&opi=89978449&ved=0CAMQjB1qFwoTCPje0dPF_YcDFQAAAAAdAAAAABAY

https://kulturologia.ru/blogs/250821/50761/

https://www.messynessychic.com/2015/05/25/the-stylehunters-of-soviet-russia/

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This is the third episode of Read the Care Tag: A Fashion Podcast, which delves into the early years, brand development, and pre 2000s story of Vivienne Westwood: both brand and person. One of the pioneers of punk, and now a mainstay in both ready to wear and couture, if you like fashion, then you must hear her story.

Disclaimer: Vivienne Westwood is my biggest inspiration, and I have done my absolute best with my research (sources linked below), so give me grace with any mistakes that may happen. But always happy to hear feedback in the comments :)

Theme: by Étienne Dyer

Special thank you to Ben Westwood, Vivienne's son, who has so many incredible pieces of archival footage, and iconic interviews, on his youtube channel, which helped me a lot in the process of making this episode:

merci, merci, merci!

His channel is linked below:

https://www.youtube.com/@benwestwood6350

Fun Runway footage!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hSMl9g0C6Vw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pfhvm-9yVFU

https://youtu.be/m3xHcai4_s0

Sources:

https://www.cnn.com/style/article/vivienne-westwood-obituary/index.html

https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O1173366/buccaneer-shirt-mclaren-malcolm/

https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O75527/pirates-ensemble-vivienne-westwood/

https://www.vogue.com/article/the-pirate-look-in-fashion-1981-2021

https://lemodalogue.com/2012/02/12/seditionaries-and-pirates/

https://www.kerrytaylorauctions.com/auction/lot/130-a-rare-complete-vivienne-westwood-pirate/?lot=17253&sd=1

http://lidyacirella.blogspot.com/2010/09/vivienne-westwoodthe-queen-of-punk.html

https://web.archive.org/web/20110108102530/http://www.vam.ac.uk/vastatic/microsites/1231_vivienne_westwood/influences.html

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vivienne_Westwood#References

https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/vivienne-westwood-reveals-malcolm-mclaren-abusive-relationship

https://www.tukshoes.co.uk/pages/history-of-creepers

https://www.viviennewestwood.com/en-gb/westwood-world/the-story-so-far/

https://www.viviennewestwood.com/en-gb/westwood-world/worlds-end/clint-eastwood-bomber/

https://www.famsf.org/stories/appropriation-appreciation-commodification

https://www.psychologytoday.com/ca/blog/the-traits-excellence/201611/why-we-all-just-need-little-attention

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On this episode we dive into weft field to wax poetic about the wonderful world of denim.

Sources:

https://myfrenchcountryhomemagazine.com/bleu-de-nimes-the-history-of-denim/

Torchinsky, Jason (20 May 2013). "A Pantload Of Jeans-Themed Cars On The Anniversary Of Levi's Patent". Jalopnik. Retrieved 30 September 2019.

^ "Even AMC cars were hit by the blue jeans craze of the 1970s". MeTV. 16 August 2017. Retrieved 30 September 2019.

^ Statham, Steve (2002). Jeep Color History. MBI Publishing. pp. 101–102. ISBN 9780760306369. Retrieved 30 September 2019. “AMC offered an optional Levis package in 1975 CJ denim-like vinyl and matching canvas top.”

St. Clair, Kassia (2018). The Golden Thread: How Fabric Changed History. London: John Murray. p. 177. ISBN 978-1-4736-5903-2. OCLC 1057250632.

^ Bellis, Mary (19 May 2014). "Levi Strauss - The History of Blue Jeans". About.com. Retrieved 25 August 2015. “Levi Strauss had the canvas made into waist overalls. Miners liked the pants, but complained that they tended to chafe. Levi Strauss substituted a twilled cotton cloth from France called "sergé de Nimes". The fabric later became known as denim and the pants were nicknamed blue jeans.”

https://archive.vogue.com/article/1935/06/01/dude-dressing

https://www.vice.com/en/article/5gw8dd/de-nimes-000413-v20n2

https://thoughtsonthinking.org/2020/10/21/camus-and-sartre-why-modern-society-is-absurd/

This podcast is written, researched and created by Maya Ginzburg

Royalty Free Music from Podcastle and theme by Étienne Dyer

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