Joel Unema is a high-performance rock climber and coach for Climb Strong, and has climbed V14 and 5.14b. We talked about how Tyler Nelson helped him unlock V14 finger strength, how Steve Bechtel helped him send a 20+ move roof boulder, how to optimize your power endurance for a sport climbing trip, and much more. Buckle up for a good old-fashioned training chat.

The Nugget Training App (14-Day Free Trial) 👉 http://training.thenuggetclimbing.com

FREE Finger Training PDF 👉 thenuggetclimbing.com/grinds

The NUG 👉 https://frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug

Show Notes:

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/joel-unema

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:00) – Hurricave

(00:04:37) – Dirtbike crash

(00:07:22) – Balance vs. compromise

(00:12:30) – The bigger picture

(00:16:22) – Joel’s breakthrough season

(00:22:43) – Finger Training with Tyler Nelson

(00:37:20) – Roof Training with Steve Bechtel

(00:46:51) – Ice cube moments

(00:58:58) – Hi-Low

(01:05:53) – Training for a sport climbing trip

(01:11:54) – Pacing & metabolic specificity

(01:15:45) – Training for a sport climbing trip continued

(01:18:10) – Riding the rollercoaster

(01:26:18) – Floor & ceiling

(01:35:55) – Achievement to experience

(01:39:00) – Strength training

(01:45:39) – My Hueco goals

(01:49:03) – Joel’s goals

(01:52:13) – The Teacup

(01:56:03) – Wrap up

Today, I am resharing one of the most valuable episodes I have ever recorded. This episode with Tom Randall was originally aired on Patreon in Feb, 2022. We talked about how to use your friends to discover your strengths and weaknesses, how to work backward from goals, how long it takes to make major changes in your climbing, like switching from bouldering to sport climbing, and much more. Don’t skip this episode if you are a self-coached climber.

The Nugget Training App (14-Day Free Trial) 👉 http://training.thenuggetclimbing.com

The NUG 👉 https://frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug

Key Takeaways PDF 👉 https://thenuggetclimbing.squarespace.com/s/Key-Takeaways_Updated.pdf

Full Show Notes 👉 thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tom-randall-repost-from-patreon

Charlie Boscoe is a former IFSC commentator, writer, and co-founder of the Pro Climbing League, a bold new head-to-head bouldering series debuting on February 28. We talked about his first experience in the outdoors, why Janja Garnbret and Adam Ondra are the G.O.A.T.s, and why climbing competitions are about to get a lot more exciting. You can learn more at proclimbing.com

The Nugget Training App 👉 http://training.thenuggetclimbing.com

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/charlie-boscoe

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:48) – The perfect phrase

(00:10:55) – Hooked on climbing

(00:15:49) – The impermanence of achievements

(00:22:56) – Commentating

(00:26:01) – Janja Garnbret & Adam Ondra

(00:30:39) – IFSC Broadcasting

(00:34:11) – Pro Climbing League

(00:45:50) – Adjustable comp walls

(00:48:44) – Can two climbs be identical?

(00:53:59) – The viewing experience

(01:02:07) – Goals for PCL

(01:06:22) – Logistical challenges

(01:11:04) – The first comp (London, Feb 28)

(01:13:06) – Broncos, Seahawks, Mariners

(01:17:29) – Wrap up