Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast Titelbild

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Von: Eric J. Hörst
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Training and performance podcasts by Eric Hörst, the internationally renowned author, climbing coach, researcher, inventor, and accomplished climber of more than 45 years. Founder of TrainingForClimbing.com and PhysiVāntage Nutrition. With his unique combination of veteran climbing and coaching experience and knowledge of the latest climbing research, Eric presents practical, effective guidelines to climb harder, reduce injury risk, and maximize the experience of moving over stone. Eric is one of the world's most knowledgeable climbing coaches and his eight books (and many foreign translations) have sold more than 500,000 copies worldwide. His latest book release is the 3rd edition of Training For Climbing. Learn more at: http://www.trainingforclimbing.comCopyright 2024 Eric J. Horst | All Rights Reserved Fitness, Diät & Ernährung Gymnastik & Fitness Hygiene & gesundes Leben
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  • #130 - PRO TIPS: Cameron Horst's Training Secrets Behind a 5.15a Send

    #130 - PRO TIPS: Cameron Horst's Training Secrets Behind a 5.15a Send
    Jun 9 2026
    Cameron Hörst recently completed the hardest route of his climbing career: Big Bone (5.15a/9a+), a king line out Utah's massive Fynn Cave. What makes his first ascent especially compelling isn't just the grade—it's the journey. Big Bone was a project that demanded years of training, 60+ working goes and redpoint attempts, countless setbacks, and a level of patience few climbers ever develop. In this episode of the Training for Climbing Podcast, Cameron unpacks the entire process. We dive into the physical, mental, and tactical challenges of working a multi-year project, the breakthroughs that finally moved the needle, and the lessons any climber can apply to their own long-term goals—whether you're projecting 5.10 or 5.15. One of the most fascinating takeaways is that the breakthrough wasn't a sudden gain in finger strength or power. Instead, it came from years of accumulated training adaptations, comprehensive energy system development, improved recovery, refined tactics, and learning when not to climb. Cameron shares how he finally broke through a plateau that had stalled his progress for multiple seasons. RUNDOWN 2:00 – What Does It Feel Like to Send a Multi-Year Project? 5:00 – Inside Utah's Incredible Fin Cave 7:00 – Anatomy of the "Big Bone" Project 9:50 – Why the Route is So Difficult 12:00 – Cameron's Three-Year Journey on the Route 13:50 – Breaking Through a Plateau 16:40 – Training Lessons from Big Bone 18:00 – Recovery: The Secret Weapon 21:00 – Sending on the Second Try 24:10 - Energy System Training and the benefits of becoming more fat adapted 26:00 – Mental Growth and Performance Psychology 28:30 - Discovery of Fin Cave 31:30 – The Evolution of "Bone Tomahawk" and "Big Bone" 32:00 – Friendship and Mentorship with Joe Kinder 34:20 – Balancing University, Life, and Elite Climbing 40:00 – The Importance of Partners and Community 44:00 - Debating 5.15a versus 5.15b -- how to grade a hard FA? 47:30 - Ultimately, the grade isn't important -- the journey is what counts! 48:10 – Coaching, Exercise Science, and Helping Others Follow and contact Cameron on Instagram @cam_horstVisit Cam's website at: www.CameronHorst.com 49:28 – What's Next? 51:05 – Eric's summarizes 8 Key Tips and Takeaways from this interview. 54:30 - Sponsor Discount: Save 15% off full-priced PhysiVantage Nutrition with code: PODCAST15 (North America only) 56:00 -⭐ Enjoy the podcast? Leave a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and share this episode with a climbing partner! 56:40 - Hörst Out! Podcast Sponsors Thank you to La Sportiva, PhysiVantage Nutrition, DMM Climbing, Blue Water Ropes! Save 10% off a new BlueWater Rope with checkout code: ERIC_CLINICSave on La Sportiva shoes here >>Save 15% off full-priced PhysiVantage Nutrition with code: PODCAST15 (North America only) European climbers, please get your PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV Shop or Oliunid.com. Mexican climbers visit PhysiVantage.mx Connect with Eric Hörst 📬 Training for Climbing Newsletter Get monthly training insights delivered to your inbox. Visit TrainingForClimbing.com to subscribe. 📱 Follow Eric Instagram: @eric_horst | @training4climbing YouTube: Training For Climbing Twitter: @Train4Climbing Facebook: Training For Climbing Music by Misty Murphy Copyright 2026 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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    57 Min.
  • #129 - WEEKEND CRUSHER: From Florida to 5.13d - The Jessica Jenkins Story

    #129 - WEEKEND CRUSHER: From Florida to 5.13d - The Jessica Jenkins Story
    May 17 2026
    In this inspiring new "Weekend Crushers" feature, I sit down with Florida-based climber Jessica Jenkins to unpack her incredible journey from a teenager climbing plastic in Orlando to recently sending her hardest route ever: the iconic Red River Gorge testpiece Swingline (5.13d). Her story is far more than a tale of grades and performance—it's a masterclass in resilience, adaptability, patience, and building a life that supports your passion even when circumstances aren't ideal. Whether you live far from outdoor climbing, struggle to balance work and family with training, or simply need a reminder that long-term consistency still wins, I think you'll find Jessica's story deeply motivating. Her journey proves that you don't need perfect circumstances to pursue extraordinary goals—you just need commitment, structure, and the willingness to keep showing up. Key Inspirational Takeaways for Climbers Living Far from Rock 1. Your location does not define your potential. Jessica proves that you do not need to live in Boulder, Salt Lake, or Chattanooga to become a high-level climber. Smart training, consistency, and strategic travel can close much of the gap. 2. Training with intention matters more than perfect access. Because she can't climb outdoors weekly, Jessica trains with incredible specificity—adjusting board angles, targeting pocket strength for Wyoming trips, and using power-endurance circuits to prepare for the Red River Gorge. 3. Passion fuels discipline. Long drives, limited outdoor mileage, inconsistent weather, and balancing work obligations would discourage many climbers. But Jessica's love for climbing continues to drive her effort year after year. 4. Progress is rarely linear. Even highly prepared climbers experience setbacks, regressions, injuries, and emotional struggles. Near-sends and failures are often part of the process—not signs that the goal is impossible. 5. Build a life that supports your passion. Jessica intentionally shaped her career and lifestyle around climbing freedom. Rather than waiting for ideal circumstances, she created systems that allowed climbing to remain central in her life. 6. Long-term consistency beats short-term intensity. Jessica's breakthrough wasn't the result of one magical training cycle. It was built over 16 years of climbing, coaching, learning, traveling, and steadily improving. 7. Community matters. The interview highlights how supportive partners, climbing friends, coaches, and mentors can make a huge difference—especially for climbers who live far from outdoor destinations. ⭐ Enjoy the podcast? Leave a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and share this episode with a climbing partner! Podcast Sponsors Thank you to La Sportiva, PhysiVantage Nutrition, DMM Climbing, Blue Water Ropes! Save 10% off a new BlueWater Rope with checkout code: ERIC_CLINICSave on La Sportiva shoes here >>Save 15% off full-priced PhysiVantage Nutrition with code: PODCAST15 (North America only) European climbers, please get your PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV Shop or Oliunid.com. Mexican climbers visit PhysiVantage.mx Connect with Eric Hörst 📬 Training for Climbing Newsletter Get monthly training insights delivered to your inbox. Visit TrainingForClimbing.com to subscribe. 📱 Follow Eric Instagram: @eric_horst | @training4climbing YouTube: Training For Climbing Twitter: @Train4Climbing Facebook: Training For Climbing Music by Misty Murphy Copyright 2026 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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    35 Min.
  • #128 - CRUSHERS: 5.14c at Age 45 - The Aaron Shamy Comeback Story

    #128 - CRUSHERS: 5.14c at Age 45 - The Aaron Shamy Comeback Story
    Apr 28 2026
    In this inaugural Weekend Crushers episode of the T4C podcast, Eric Hörst sits down with Aaron Shamy—an inspiring example of what's possible when passion, persistence, and smart training intersect with real life. Aaron's journey spans elite youth climbing in the 1990s, a 15+ year hiatus, and a remarkable comeback culminating in a 5.14c redpoint at age 45. This is more than a comeback story—it's a masterclass in long-term progression. Aaron shares practical training insights, mindset strategies, and real-world tactics that apply to middle-aged climbers and weekend warriors of any age. Here are a few key takeaways from this episode: Long-term consistency beats short-term intensityYou can come back stronger—even after years (or decades) away Progress isn't linear—trust that small gains will accumulate and compoundBuild a system that fits your life, so that you an excel in all the important areas Strength-to-weight matters—but proper fueling matters more Community enhances both performance and enjoyment Climbing longevity is real—with the right mindset and approach I'm confident you'll find this episode both highly informative and deeply inspiring. ⏱️ Key Points & Timestamps 0:15 – Intro & Series Launch 4:05 – Aaron Shamy backstory 7:45 – Life Happens: Family & Hiatus 12:45 – The Comeback Begins (age 38) 15:05 – Rebuilding from Scratch 26:00 – "Flight of the Conchords" Project and the Pyramid Strategy 33:00 – The Days, Weeks, Months Projecting "Flight"... 36:00 – Training and Non-Linear Progress 38:30 – Nutrition & Weight Loss Transformation 44:00 – Aaron's 3 Keys to Success 46:10 – Community & Support System 48:20 – What's Next? 54:15 - Final Takeaways & Key Points ⭐ Enjoy the podcast? Leave a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and share this episode with a climbing partner! Podcast Sponsors Thank you to La Sportiva, PhysiVantage Nutrition, DMM Climbing, Blue Water Ropes! Save 10% off a new BlueWater Rope with checkout code: ERIC_CLINICSave on La Sportiva shoes here >>Save 15% off full-priced PhysiVantage Nutrition with code: PODCAST15 (North America only) European climbers, please get your PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV Shop or Oliunid.com. Mexican climbers visit PhysiVantage.mx Connect with Eric Hörst 📬 Training for Climbing Newsletter Get monthly training insights delivered to your inbox. Visit TrainingForClimbing.com to subscribe. 📱 Follow Eric Instagram: @eric_horst | @training4climbing YouTube: Training For Climbing Twitter: @Train4Climbing Facebook: Training For Climbing Music by Misty Murphy Copyright 2026 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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    57 Min.
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